Bruschetta with Sautéed Squash Blossoms & Fresh Ricotta

Squash blossoms are a delicate things that appear in the farmers’ market for the briefest time in early summer.  If I see them, I buy them and rearrange my day so I can cook them as soon as I get home.  I usually fry them in a tempura style batter with chickpea flour and Indian spices, or go in an Italian direction.  Sometimes, I stuff them with goat cheese, coat them with egg wash and panko and bake them. All of these methods are time consuming and take multiple steps, though the results are always worth the effort. I’ve always wanted to have an easy way to make them, and not feel the mixed roller coaster of emotions at the excitement of finding them, then the pressure of having to prepare them almost immediately, and finally anticipation and delight of their taste .

So when I spied the beautiful delicacies at the market this week (Farmer Sarment from Plant It Forward does it again), I was determined to find a quick, easy and delicious way to prepare them.   

 I had baked a loaf of no-knead bread for the week and had Lira Rossa fresh ricotta  on hand.  I had a beautiful purple pepper from Johnson’s Backyard Garden, red potatoes from Atkinson Farms and a few  skinny plum tomatoes from Sarment. So this dish came together as a light supper, packed with nutrition, taste and the excitement of squash blossoms, with all the ingredients gathered at that morning's farmers’ market. 

To to prepare the blossoms themselves, I shake them out, gently rub with a moist paper towel, cut them in half lengthwise and take out the stamens. A little residual pollen is no problem. 

 I used Penzy’s Herbs de Provence  and a little chipotle powder to create a fresh taste with a hint of spice.  Mixing different cultural styles seems perfect as these blossoms are enjoyed by so many cultures, capturing a moment in time that seasonal cooking highlights.  The addition of tomatoes provides sweetness and balanced acidity. 

The flavor of squash blossoms is delicate and mild, but unforgettable. If you’ve never had them, this is an easy way to try them. The sautéed  blossoms can also be used as a lovely side dish.

RECIPE : Bruschetta with Sautéed Squash Blossoms & Fresh Ricotta

INGREDIENTS

• 16 squash blossoms, halved lengthwise with stamens removed
• 1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 
• 2 Tablespoons chopped shallot
• 1/3 cup finely chopped sweet pepper (use what you can find)
• 1 cup diced red potatoes  
• 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes (if they are very watery, discard some of the seeds and water) 
• 1 teaspoon Herbs de Provence
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly crushed black pepper
• 4 slices of toasted bread
• 1/2 cup ricotta cheese
• Extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper

PROCESS

Sautéing Squash Blossoms

1. Place oil in pan with shallots, peppers, potatoes, herbs de Provence, chipotle, salt and pepper.
2. Sauté for 4-5 minutes until the vegetables are translucent.  
3. Add the tomatoes and cook another 4-5 minutes until the potatoes are cooked though. 
4. Add the squash blossoms and toss to just wilt. Take off the heat.  
5. Adjust seasonings. 

Assembling the Bruschetta  

1. Spread 2 Tablespoons of ricotta on each slice of toasted bread.
2. Drizzle with a 1/4 teaspoon olive oil, and sprinkle a tiny bit of salt and pepper over the cheese
3. Top with the sautéed squash blossom mixture. 

Serves 4

Ricotta Pancakes with Blueberry-Cinnamon Maple Syrup

I don’t usually eat breakfast, but I love breakfast foods. Growing up, my father would make us eggs and toast for breakfast before school. On weekends, we had pancakes with syrup, which I spiked with a squeeze of lemon to cut through the sweetness a bit.  My father cooked with us on the weekends which were my mothers days off (I’m fortunate to be the daughter of a man who appreciates the work that women do, and that they should have days off).  It was my 4th grade friendship with twin brothers, Doug and Denny Liphart, that taught me the concept of breakfast for dinner, and the wonders of maple syrup.  The Lipharts were from Pennsylvania and had a steady supply of the good stuff, which held the secrets of a deep, earthy, lingering sweetness that could not be found in Log Cabin or even Mrs. Butterworth’s.  Their mom, Marty, was a great cook and she left me her Betty Crocker Cookbook binder from 1965, my first cookbook. I loved her pancakes and maple syrup dinners. I may have promised each of the twins a kiss on the cheek to get invited back regularly for pancakes, but that part of my memory is fuzzy.  It was a simpler and more innocent time and filled with delicious foods.

I had another serious crush, this time in Italy, with fresh ricotta. It can be eaten just as it is, become sweet or savory on command and is soft, light and always delicious. I just kept wanting more. I recently discovered an Italian making fresh ricotta cheese in Moulton, Texas. I get his Lira Rossa fresh ricotta from the Urban Harvest Farmers’ Market when ever I can.  

So you can only imagine how I feel about ricotta pancakes. 

From a nutrition standpoint, this is a more balanced pancake, getting protein form the ricotta and eggs.  The blueberries in the syrup add lots of vitamins and minerals. And, the cinnamon has some medicinal properties, as its thought to be an anti-inflammatory spice in Ayurvedic medicine.  

My recipe is simple and quick. Separating the eggs and folding the whipped egg whites into the batter makes a lighter, fluffier pancake, but you certainly skip this step and still have a great result. Make the blueberry-maple syrup first so the berries have some time to impart their flavor to the syrup. The cinnamon adds warmth and brings the blueberries and maple flavors together.

RECIPE: Ricotta Pancakes with Blueberry-Maple Syrup

INGREDIENTS

Pancakes

• 1 Cup whole milk ricotta  
• 1 Cup all purpose flour, sifted
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 lemon, zest and juice
• 2 eggs, separated
• 1 Cup whole milk
• Butter for cooking

Syrup

• 2 Cups fresh blueberries 
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (I like the Indonesian cinnamon from Penzey’s) 
• 2 Cups Maple syrup 

PROCESS

1. Combine blueberries, cinnamon and syrup in a bowl and set aside. 
2. In a work bowl, place the ricotta and sift the flour and baking soda over.  
3. Separate the eggs and add the yolks to the cheese-flour mixture, placing the egg whites into a clean bowl big enough to beat them. 
4. Using a electric mixer with clean beaters, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. You can do this with a hand whisk if you’d like.
5. Mix the cheese, flour and yokes together with the beaters, no need to clean them. Then add the milk and beat to combine.  Stir in lemon juice and zest. Mixture will be lumpy. 
6. Fold in beaten egg whites. 
7. Cook pancakes with a little butter on a medium hot griddle, about 2-3 minutes each side. 
8. Serve with blueberry Maple syrup. 

Makes 12 pancakes. 

Easiest Green Beans Ever

Bright green and just tender

Don't you just adore bright, sweet, just cooked through green beans? They are almost universally loved. But who wants to go through the blanching and shocking and then sautéing? Here's an easy way to cook green beans and use them in salads, pasta dishes or just pick them up and eat them.

Green beans are an excellent source of multiple vitamins, minerals and fiber.  The addition of the little bit of extra virgin olive oil, a good fat, helps absorption of vitamin A and several minerals.

Once again, I will take the time to advocate for local farmers’ markets. The green beans in the supermarket are cold stored and lack the nutrition and sweetness of those that are fresh picked. Once you’ve had a really fresh, sweet green bean, there’s no going back to the cold stored variety. This is true of all produce, but you’ll have to taste the difference yourself to become a believer.

This is my easy 1 pot short cut to perfect green beans.

RECIPE: Simple Green Beans

INGREDIENTS

• 1/2 lb green beans
• Salt & Pepper
• 2 Tsp water
• 1 tsp extra virgin olive

PROCESS

Place all ingredients in a covered flat pan over medium heat. Simmer for 5 minutes until beans are bright green and just tender. Uncover.

Serves 4

Before

After

Tricolor Vegetables w Bengali 5 Spice (panch phoran)

One of the many joys of seasonal cooking is embracing doing the best with what you’ve got. Such is my journey with purple cabbage. I don’t give it much thought at all. I look at it and immediately think cole slaw.  But Sarment, one of the farmers I visit every week knowing everything he grows is delicious, had several adorable little purple cabbages a few weeks ago. He also had gorgeous Swiss chard and the usual divine sweet potatoes. These items came home with me and became the inspiration for this dish. 

I have been making this regularly and eating it with a side of Greek yogurt as lunch. It’s lovely to look at, and the purple cabbage retains its color and crunch to balance against the gently wilted chard and creamy sweet potatoes. Everyone, especially children, are always interested in this dish. It’s appealing.

I have used an Indian spice mix here as it is round in taste, flavorful, mild and compliments the vegetables. It’s a particularly good complement to cabbage. Traditionally used in the Indian state of Bengal, panch (five) phoran (whole spice) is a mix containing fennel, nigella(onion seeds), mustard, fenugreek and cumin. It is used in a old vegetable dish popular in Bengali households called chachori, where no part of any vegetable is wasted. This tradition is being slowly lost in favor of more sophisticated foods, but it’s too delicious not to rescue.  You can also use coriander in place of the cumin.  You can make your own (equal parts of each) or buy it online.  Spices have medicinal and health properties that have been studied in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries. This blend contains spices that act as anti-oxidants and are believed to reduce inflammation. 

Something this beautiful, easy and delicious makes cooking a delight. Serve it as a side dish, eat with a piece of bread, a small bowl of rice, or with yogurt (like me).  I hope you will enjoy it as much as I do.

RECIPE: Tricolor Vegetables with Bengali 5 Spice

INGREDIENTS

• 2 tsp panch phoran
• 1 Tsp expeller pressed canola
• 3C chopped sweet potatoes
• 3C chopped purple cabbage
• 1 C chopped Chard stems
• 4C chopped Chard leaves
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp cayenne (more to taste)
• 1/4 tsp turmeric

PROCESS

1. Heat spices in the pan slowly with oil until the mustard seeds just start to pop.
2. Add the sweet potatoes and remaining spices and sauté for 2-3 minutes, covering occasionally.
3. Add the cabbage, toss, and cook covered for 3-4 minutes.
4. Add chard stems and cook covered 3-4 minutes.
5. Add the chard leaves and toss to gently wilt.  

Adjust seasonings and enjoy.   Serves 4.

Step 1

Heat spices in the pan slowly with oil until the mustard seeds just start to pop.

Step 2

Add the sweet potatoes and remaining spices and sauté for 2-3 minutes, covering occasionally.

Step 3

Add the cabbage, toss, and cook covered for 3-4 minutes.

Step 4

Add chard stems and cook covered 3-4 minutes.

Step 5

Add the chard leaves and toss to gently wilt.  

Simplicity & Balance: Cacio e Pepe

TRAVEL FOOD JOURNAL: TUSCANY

Take Home Lesson #1 Simplicity & Balance

Italian Version

One of the many joys of traveling is re-introducing yourself to dishes you thought you knew, cooked by the people who originally made them. I am not debating good or bad, better or worse here; I’m thinking about how our own palates alter the interpretation of the dishes and the myriad of reasons this happens.

Pici cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) is the simplest of dishes and thus, difficult to make perfectly. Classically a dish from Rome, where the cheese used is pecorino romano, the Tuscan version can use parmagiano regiano, as the city of Parma is not too far away, or pecorino toscano. The pasta type, pici, which a chubby cousin of spaghetti, hails from Siena, and is the perfect size and thickness to hold and balance the minimalist sauce. This must be cooked and served at once for the true deliciousness to be savored. If you are using fresh pici, and I’m trying to find the right die to make it, the first bite of pasta may seem a little undercooked, but the rest will be perfect as it continues to cook and absorb the sauce. Fresh pasta makes a big difference here, as its stickiness and starchiness helps create the creaminess of the sauce, as well as absorbing the flavors.

American Version

The pici cacio e pepe I had recently in Florence was masterfully done. I had a version in Houston the week before, which was also delicious, but my new experience begs me to reconsider our version-perhaps the added mound of cheese and and extra cracked pepper is gilding the lily. By comparison, the Italian version would seem totally naked, unadorned. But, this is how we in America view our pasta: under a sea of sauce and a mound of cheese. It’s what we expect when we order pasta, and this is perfectly fine. This may be derived from the Italian American experience as immigrants brought the food of their origins into a new world, adapting to what was available, the amount of time they had to cook, and changing it in the process. Many other factors also played roles, including big changes in how and why Americans eat.

We eat with our eyes first, so there has to be an adjustment in our view, a change in the expectation of what deliciousness looks like. Minimalist, modern, sophisticated food is delicious, and served on a beautiful plate the visual affect is stunning.

Until I figure out how to make pici, or talk the pasta man into making it for me, I’ll get really good fresh spaghetti from the farmers market, and remember to cook it very al dente as I mix the sauce.

I’m going to try to incorporate this lesson into my cooking and eating. Using great ingredients remains the key to all great food. To balance them in simple perfection, to create a harmonious dish is not easy, but well worth the practice. I will try to visualize food differently as well, looking not for embellishment, but simplicity, balance and sophistication. Less is more in many things, and this dish is a perfect example.

The recipe below is more of a process and you should change the amounts and combinations of cheese and pepper to your taste. It’s so quick to make, you can love several versions and make what you like. The key is the pan sauce, using just the right amount of water; so add it in small quantities for the perfect creaminess.

Most recipes for this add butter and oil, which are fine, but this is the simplest of versions.

Have a high sided pan to build the sauce and pasta. Get all the ingredients ready and have them at hand, as this goes quickly!

RECIPE: Pasta Cacio e Pepe

INGREDIENTS

• 8oz fresh pasta (spaghetti, or pici if you can get it)
• Kosher or sea salt
• 1-2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
• 1 to 1-1/2 C grated pecorino (or 1/2 each pecorino and paramgiano)

PROCESS

1. Bring water to boil in a pot and add salt.
2. Add pasta to the pot and cook per instructions to al dente.
3. Warm the pan over low heat.
4. Drain pasta, reserving 1 C pasta water.
5. Put pasta into the pan and immediately add the cheese mixing quickly and adding small amounts of the reserved pasta water to create a creamy dressing. Add desired amount of pepper so that it has a sharpness and spice, but is not too hot, and mix again.
6. Serve immediately and enjoy.

Serves 2-4.